When we think of kiwi, we may not think of South France, but these creeper trees - with their curled, jungle-style canopies - keep the stone fruit company from the Pyrenees to the Lot-et-Garonne. Some orchards are 50-100 years old. They're a local fruit for the locals, unstrapped by airmiles and picked ripe rather than rock hard for transport. Tree-ripened kiwi are something else: none of that rock hard and mush that premature harvest kiwi do so well.

Marc has 1500 trees over 1.5 hectares: which get a rich base treatment in natural fumée throughout the year, because these are thirsty trees. No chemicals. The fruit need the whole breadth of the summer to put on sugars, and ripen in November. Uniquely Marc is harvesting whole branches: so no fingers on the creamy tender fruit, and no bruising.

So, rather than a look for a peach out of season, pick up a French kiwi instead.